Beyond the Frame 35/
Photographing Chinese New Year at Bangkok’s largest and most important Chinese Buddhist temple, Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Plus my podcast highlights of 2024.
Chinese New Year
I spent Chinese New Year photographing in and around the Dragon Temple, Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (originally Wat Leng Noei Yi) in Bangkok’s Chinatown.
My brief was to make pictures of people performing the rituals and practices associated with Chinese New Year in a documentary style — nothing posed, simply observational.
I used a single Leica M11 with a Leica Summilux f/1.4 28mm ASPH lens and, occasionally, a Leica Summicron f/2 90mm.
Audio Clip
I recorded some short audio clips of the temple bells and the sounds of Kau Cim sticks being shaken. Audio recorded on a Zoom H1n Field Recorder.
In the narrow alleyways surrounding the temple, people buy meals and snacks, some of which are given as offerings inside the temple.
Having made a donation, devotees burn the official receipt in a merit-making offering.
Standing on the opposite side of the oven allowed me to capture a different perspective of people delivering their burning receipts.
Inside the temple, devotees make offerings and pray to the Buddhist deities.
At the main altar, people kneel, recite mantras, pray and shake their bamboo Kau Cim sticks.
At a certain point in the afternoon, shards of bright sunshine illuminate the temple courtyard in sharply-defined pockets of light.
Across the street from the main temple, devotees make a donation and light large, red candles.
The liquid in the bottle is oil, used to top-up reservoirs for burning wicks.
Farang in the mirror.
Lighting incense and stepping into the main temple.
Chinese New Year is an opportunity to dress up.
In the street outside the Dragon Temple, people offer prayers at another Buddhist shrine.
This young woman was waiting for her family to complete their prayers and offerings.
Chinese New Year is, of course, a festival where photos are made of all the family. I’d bet this family have albums of photos going back a generation or two, to which this will be the latest addition.
The three young ladies were taking turns to pose in the temple doorway. The sound of their giggling turned heads.
As the girls were posing, I made several frames, waiting for the seated lady to turn her head, which she did only for a moment. That gesture makes an all-important connection and rewarded my patience. Without that invisible line from her gaze to the girls in the doorway, it’s an entirely different image.
Prayers and smiles at the shrine.
Ringing the temple bells is an opportunity to make as much noise as possible.
Waiting for a taxi. These three charming youngsters kindly donated their balloon to a toddler shortly after I made these pictures, making his day.
After sunset, other nearby temples in Chinatown attract crowds of devotees.
In the busy streets, three young Thais find space for a well-lit photo shoot. No doubt the results can be seen on TikTok.
Another street photo shoot. This pair of elegant young woman told me that they liked the orange background with the red dress. I almost suggested that the neighbouring blue shutters might provide a pleasing contrast but thought better of it. Nobody does their best work with an interfering Art Director imposing their creative vision on a shoot!
Spending most of the day in and around the main Chinatown temple allowed me to take my time and observe the changing light. It can be tempting to rush from place to place, trying to capture all of the events and processions but on such a busy day it’s a futile endeavour.
My experience of this Chinese New Year reinforces my memories of pretty much all the days I’ve spent photographing in Thailand. The light is great for photography, the temples and the ceremonies are vibrant. Above all though, it is the people I meet that make the most abiding memories. There’s such a universal openness, such gentle hospitality and warmth shown to strangers. One cannot fail to leave a day like this without one’s heart overflowing with gratitude for the smiling generosity of strangers.
Best of 2024 - Podcast Episodes
Continuing my review of media highlights of 2024, these were three of my favourite podcast episodes. All are great examples of how audio can provide an immersive medium for storytelling.
Life Changing, Blink Once
Police officer Clodagh Dunlop is used to dealing with emergency situations — until it’s her own. It’s Easter Monday 2015: Clodagh is an ambitious police officer in Northern Ireland. A fit 35-year-old, she’s in training to run a 6-minute mile. But her day off takes a terrifying turn, and Clodagh finds herself trapped in her own body, hearing the conversations around her but unable to communicate. Then she finds the strength to make a remarkable breakthrough.
Desert Island Discs, Ian Wright
At his primary school a teacher, Mr Pigden, took him under his wing and Ian would later credit him with changing his life. Ian Wright left his secondary school at the age of 14 to get a job. Although he took part in trials for many professional football clubs as a teenager, he was never selected. He continued to play for amateur sides. By the age of 21, he had three children to provide for, so when Crystal Palace came calling in 1985, he turned them down three times before accepting a two-week trial, followed by a three-month contract. His football career had finally begun.
The Outdoors Fix, Juls Stodel
Juls is a hiker and trustee of the Mountain Bothies Association. She journeyed to 104 bothies in Scotland, England and Wales between 2022–2023 – a challenge that took her 15 months. From bothies on remote Scottish Islands to ones hidden away in the Highlands, it was a unique adventure. On their walk, Juls also opened up about her schizophrenia diagnosis, something she’s not spoken about publicly before, and why she wants to break the stigma around the mental illness.
Until next time, go well.
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Beautiful color grading!
Your photos show what it was like to be in Bangkok at this time. Reminder to plan trips atound specific events. Thanks!